Look at the very lowest key carefully to see how and where the tab is.
On the key at the very top is a small arrow showing which side the tab is on. The key is removed by depressing a plastic retaining tab just under the skinny part of the key on one side or the other. It did start with the D key curiously enough. If they are un aware of the situation they can contact Yamaha. If you think this fits you you should contact a Yamaha warrenty station. This is only for this specific manufacturing defect. So far Yamaha has provided warrenty keybed replacement and instalation by a warrenty station ( even if the warrenty period has expired ) as long as the keyboard was brought in by the original purchaser. You can fix keys as described in another post ( clean the grease off before gluing ) and fixed ones probably won't fail again but many or all the keys will fail eventually. Good keys will usually have a tiny amount of play while tilted ones won't. You can also test by lightly grasping the front edge of each key and moving it gently side to side.
#REPLACEMENT KEYS FOR A YAMAHA PSR 293 CRACKED#
The pivot of the key is cracked allowing it to tilt and bind in the guides. Keys that stick or are slow to return due to the defect in question will be SLIGHTLY tilted ( edges not straight up and down ) compared to the unaffected keys. The defective keybeds can be identified by putting the unit at eye level( squat doen in front of it ) and looking straight on at the front edges of the keys. However, now that I've heard that Yamaha admit a design flaw and will replace affected keyboards I thinks I'll make enquiries to see if I can get a complete replacement. I usually put the key back in after 10 minutes settings time. Superglue seems to work really well with this plastic and only takes a short time to set. The way I've fixed each key is to break off the small piece of plastic that has cracked and simply glue it back carefully using a good superglue. It took me a while to figure this out as the cracking can be almost invisible at first with very slight deformity of the socket sides on the inside tip of the key. At the inside end of each key where the key pivots like a ball and socket the side walls of the socket at the end of the key were affected by cracking - which made the side walls no longer quite parallel and the key was no longer held straight so it rubs and sticks on the plastic movement guards or the next key.
I've fixed several sticking keys on my S90 and all had the same fault. All the rest of the keys are strangely unaffected. This fixed the problem with hardly any adverse effect on the keyboard's playability, but the front of the synth looks like a complete mess so I might need to look into getting some replacement keys (that's if they are easily replaceable).įunnily enough, this problem is only occurring on certain keys on the synth - it always begins on a D key and then begins to affect the neighbouring C and E keys. The only way I 'fixed' the problem was by literally hacking my way into the front wall of the sticking key and tearing out the rubber stop with a stanley knife.
#REPLACEMENT KEYS FOR A YAMAHA PSR 293 HOW TO#
I tried to figure out how to open this synth up and get to the problem but I couldn't find the area accessible at all. It is actually the rubber stop beneath the front of the key expanding (due to temperature changes or something, etc.) and pressing against the inner sides of the key and preventing it from springing back up. Man, I've been having the same kind of problem with my Yamaha S08 for the past few years, and since the synth has been out of warranty for some time there's not much I could do about it except try and fix the problem myself.įor my synth this sticking key problem is not a mechanical issue.
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